How to stop puppy biting

How to stop puppy biting?

The biting, the playful bite and the articulation of your hands and clothing by your dog, is particularly common among puppies, but it can also occur in older dogs who have not been taught the proper inhibition of bites. It's natural for dogs to eat and bite. They explore the world using their mouths: for a dog, his mouth is just as important as the eyes and hands are for us.

The pinch is very different from the real aggression: it is a form of communication, interaction, exploration and play. Since birth, puppies use their mouths to explore the lair, their mother and their litter mates. For a few weeks, they use their mouths to play with their siblings: puppies play biting and biting each other. Some adult dogs-usually, those with owners who encourage rough play or who were removed from litter at a very early age-retain these same biting tendencies during play and in moments of emotional coercion. [Post: External parasites and their treatment dogs]

The sibling game is actually the way young puppies learn a very important lesson, called bite inhibition. If a puppy bites too much of another puppy, the other puppy screams in pain and stops playing with it. This teaches the biter that such a degree of bite strength results in an undesirable result: social isolation. When other puppies bite you, that's how you learn how that pain feels. (This is one of the reasons why puppies taken out of litter too early are often "misaligned"; some of the important lessons that her mother and her litter mates have to teach) have been lost.

Even puppies who have learned the basic inhibition of their sibling bite generally need to be reconditioned again by entering their new home: Humans are much easier to harm than dogs, so it is necessary to Let's intervene and refine the pressure of the puppy's bite. A dog without any concept of bite inhibition is as annoying as it is dangerous: a harmless play session can quickly become a painful test.

Puppies are not able to inflict serious damage, although their small teeth are sharp, their jaws are too weak to do much more than cause a splash of blood, but an adult dog can do much more than scratch the surface, and makes very Little difference for a wounded human that the dog "did not intend to do it"!

This is what you should do to teach your dog a good bite inhibition.

NOTE: This same technique applies to older dogs, although the same results may take a little longer to reach.

  • When playing with your puppy or dog, you will have to choose the level of the mouth you are willing to accept. Some homeowners are happy that their dogs touch their hands with their teeth, as long as they do not exert pressure; Others (particularly those with large dogs and strong jaw) prefer to convey the message that no dental contact is acceptable at all.
  • Whenever you reach your level of tolerance with your puppy-you could give it a good bite, or you could gently grab your fingers in your mouth-squeal shrillly and strongly in pain and immediately move your whole body away from it. Get up and walk a few steps away from him, keeping your face and eyes apart. Don't talk to him, and don't touch him. The goal is that the puppy is completely socially isolated for the next 20 to 30 seconds, enough time to assimilate the lesson, but not enough so that you can forget what caused that response and start playing with something else. (Note: If there are other people present, you should make sure they imitate your behavior here; don't let them start playing or paying attention to the puppy or the dog,
  • Most young dogs, and some older, seem to have an innate need to chew something, anything! -Every time you play with them or caress them. To keep the focus out of your hands, and to prevent you from learning what delicious chewing toy your fingers make, offer you a more appropriate mastication: anything with a slight dose of damage should do the trick. Raw leather bones, pig ears or rubber toys are all a pleasure.
  • If he should start adjusting his hands or face while playing, correct quickly with a crisp "No", or "ah-ah-aaah!" You should stop, surprised. As soon as it stops, praise (is praising the arrest, not the original behavior, do not be mistaken for its proximity) and then quickly redirect your attention to an appropriate chewing. When your jaws close around you, praise again and Pat.
  • Never use physical force to correct your dog for chewing or nibbling inappropriately. It is not only unnecessary for the most part, but in most cases will encourage more bites and bites. The cold shoulder technique (as described above) is the most effective and humane way to convey your dog's disgust. He wants to please you: you just have to figure out how to do it. He is much more likely to do so if he abstains from corporal punishment and gives him 30 seconds of isolation instead.
  • If your dog is really accelerated and is making repeated attempts to nibble, despite carrying it on cold shoulders, it may need to cool down a bit. In this case, the ' Time Out ' method is appropriate: Take it to your box, or a small room for yourself, and leave it there for five minutes to relax a little. When it's time to bring it back to the heart of the family, you can start playing again; Just try to attenuate it one or two notches until you are sure you can tolerate the move without further bites.
  • For a dog that needs little stimulation to overexcite and boquear (particular high-energy grazing breeds are prone to this), choose to play without contact whenever possible. Frisbee and fetch are good choices; Even the tug of war, as long as your dog knows that a reliable command drops it, is adequate. Avoid rough play like slapping (where you gently tap the sides of a dog's face with open palms) and wrestling at all costs: these games encourage pinching, but also call the instinctive aggression of a dog in the mix , which is something to be avoided. Keep the Games friendly and discreet in place.


For more information

For more information on typical dog behavior, which includes a fantastic resource for training and a wealth of detailed information on the prevention and treatment of problem behaviors. [Post: Dog disobedience training]

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